A towering wooden shrine burns during the Dōsojin Fire Festival in Nozawa Onsen, flames climbing into the night as lanterns and ornaments glow above a packed crowd watching from below.

Inside Japan’s Dōsojin Fire Festival in Nozawa Onsen

A couple weeks ago, I found myself standing in the cold, in the dark, and on a sheet of ice. I was surrounded by smoke, chanting, fireworks, and a frankly alarming amount of fire. This isn’t a typical travel experience for me. And yet, there I was, watching the Dōsojin […]

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What It’s Like to Attend a Sumo Tournament in Tokyo

I arrived at the Ryōgoku Kokugikan in Tokyo about half an hour early, which is how I accidentally became part of a very specific pre-sumo ritual: standing around outside the arena with a crowd of people who did not have tickets. That’s also where I saw my first sumo wrestlers. […]

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Person standing in an empty, graffiti-covered, abandoned swimming pool beneath a rusted metal roof frame, with vegetation growing through cracks and a view of distant hills under a bright sky.

Ghosts of the Adriatic: Exploring Hotel Belvedere Dubrovnik

I had only just arrived in Dubrovnik the night before, but jet lag had me out of bed before sunrise. By ten in the morning, I had already walked the city walls, photographed the glimmering limestone streets of the Old Town, and drained the adrenaline of arrival into a kind […]

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Amazon Overnight Boat Tour in the Bolivian Jungle

In 2014, I made the trip to South America with a group of friends. Part of it took me to Bolivia with Matt, a friend from high school, and Julia, my oldest and closest friend. After winding our way through the country, we found ourselves in Trinidad, a small town […]

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View from the back of a boat moving through a wide, muddy river flanked by dense green rainforest. The boat is loaded with colourful bags, boxes, and supplies, leaving a foamy wake behind. Above, the sky is bright with scattered clouds, casting light on the lush landscape.

From Headhunters to Weddings: Life in a Borneo Longhouse

Our boat glides through the calm waters effortlessly past longhouses. The pink paint, brushed in long, faded streaks along the wooden hull, distorts in the rippled reflections stretching out from around us. My guide turns to me and smiles, pointing towards an old crimson truck parked along the banks of […]

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