A couple weeks ago, I found myself standing in the cold, in the dark, and on a sheet of ice. I was surrounded by smoke, chanting, fireworks, and a frankly alarming amount of fire. This isn’t a typical travel experience for me. And yet, there I was, watching the Dōsojin […]
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What It’s Like to Attend a Sumo Tournament in Tokyo
I arrived at the Ryōgoku Kokugikan in Tokyo about half an hour early, which is how I accidentally became part of a very specific pre-sumo ritual: standing around outside the arena with a crowd of people who did not have tickets. That’s also where I saw my first sumo wrestlers. […]
Read MoreŽabljak, Montenegro: Finding Stillness in the Durmitor Highlands
Until recently, Montenegro was a blank spot on the map for me. The name itself sounded like it belonged to a fairytale, but I couldn’t have told you where it was. That changed one late night after watching a Yes Theory video and realizing I hadn’t said yes to something […]
Read MoreBali to Gili Trawangan: Chaos, Magic Mushrooms, and My First Quake
June 2013. It was my first time going from Bali to Gili Trawangan, and I was living my Eat, Pray, Love fantasy. But the story really started a couple of days earlier, on the sulphur-choked rim of Mount Ijen in East Java. That’s where I met Martin, a Dutch traveller, […]
Read MoreGhosts of the Adriatic: Exploring Hotel Belvedere Dubrovnik
I had only just arrived in Dubrovnik the night before, but jet lag had me out of bed before sunrise. By ten in the morning, I had already walked the city walls, photographed the glimmering limestone streets of the Old Town, and drained the adrenaline of arrival into a kind […]
Read MoreAmazon Overnight Boat Tour in the Bolivian Jungle
In 2014, I made the trip to South America with a group of friends. Part of it took me to Bolivia with Matt, a friend from high school, and Julia, my oldest and closest friend. After winding our way through the country, we found ourselves in Trinidad, a small town […]
Read MoreFrom Headhunters to Weddings: Life in a Borneo Longhouse
Our boat glides through the calm waters effortlessly past longhouses. The pink paint, brushed in long, faded streaks along the wooden hull, distorts in the rippled reflections stretching out from around us. My guide turns to me and smiles, pointing towards an old crimson truck parked along the banks of […]
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